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Pzkpfv VIII MAUS XL-motor modification
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About this creation
Maus tank XL-motor modification.

Modification is done and i'm testing it. 2 M-motors in front and now 2 XL-motors in rear.
They did barely fit in to rear. It was about 0.1mm, that was left between motor and hull.

Now it runs better, yes. Batteries may be the next victims.


Other viewers, notice that this is not the main page of MAUS
To Maus page



New power-line demo platform:


It has so much torque on driving-wheels, that something will break before XL-motor stops

Gear-ratio 12/20 * 8/40 = 0.12
Makes 27rpm => diameter 62mm => 5.25metres/min => 4.7km/h
Not a rocket, but for its size safety to drive indoor

Or:
Those 12 and 20 double bevel gears can be changed to 20 bevel + 20 double bevel.
Gear-ratio would be then 0.2 and top speed 7.8km/h

Or:
3650b Technic, Gear 24 Tooth Crown with Reinforcements (New Style)
94925 Technic, Gear 16 Tooth (New Style Reinforced)
Gear-ratio 16/24 * 8/40 = 0.133, slightly faster than 0.12

Or:
Gear-ratio 12/20 * 12/36 = 0.2
Now this looks good, only new gears and 7.8km/h
This is what I'm using now.


Rear of tank stripped


XL-motors in place



Motors in place and gears & suspension ready for test. Suspension upgraded to carry more weight.
Using higher gear-ratio, but it was too slow.




A test video in YOUTUBE here: ->CLICK<-



Comments

  May 31, 2016
Wow! impressive creation, you must be herschel's secret son! I'm thinking about building it, is it still possible or are some pieces (I'm thinking about the suspensions) too hard to found? Can you give me an estimated cost of the maus? Regards, Armel
 I like it 
  August 19, 2014
ok, that sounds good, still a 1:5.001, I feel like those metal parts would chew away at the axles for the gears, though they do look useful, I do eventually have plans in the far future that might include 1/6 scale vehicles, these or Tetrix may come in handy then.
 I made it 
  August 19, 2014
Quoting Tommy Styrvoky maybe us a 1:3 instead of the 1:5 and then use a crown gear to a 16z or 8z gear, final ratio of 4.5
I think I'll go with 12/20 * 12/36. Last gear 40 -> 36. Faster and only new gears. Updated all 4 choices to LDD.
 I made it 
  August 19, 2014
Quoting Tommy Styrvoky maybe us a 1:3 instead of the 1:5 and then use a crown gear to a 16z or 8z gear, final ratio of 4.5
I think there is a solution, a Full Metal Solution: http://www.bricklink.com/store.asp?p=Eezo
  August 18, 2014
maybe us a 1:3 instead of the 1:5 and then use a crown gear to a 16z or 8z gear, final ratio of 4.5
  August 18, 2014
yeah.. you should have seen how many 8z gears my panther mangled from them sliding on the axle half a stud... if its reinforced properly strong gears aren't likely to break. Are you talking about the single bevel 20z or the 24z? I have broken plenty of 20z gears (grey ones) on a small 8x8. single bevel 12z are a better option, the stress is closer to the axle. I have been using them in a Sdkfz 9 halftrack and those gears seem to hold up pretty well within a differential 1:3 into the diff, then a 12:20 for the final drives.
 I made it 
  August 18, 2014
Quoting Tommy Styrvoky with this kind of torque I would stay away from single-bevel gears and crown gears, they are prone to breaking teeth off. The speed might be realistic for the size and you could probably drive it outside.
I tested with the testbench these gears. I could put lot of load to output axle by hand and no problem. Torque increase happen in last 8/40 gears. Tigers and Panther etc were known to broke gears, so its kind of realistic to break gears ;)
  August 17, 2014
with this kind of torque I would stay away from single-bevel gears and crown gears, they are prone to breaking teeth off. The speed might be realistic for the size and you could probably drive it outside.
 I made it 
  August 16, 2014
I have made demo-platform for new power-line. Works well, not breaking up, fits in Maus. Only waiting your acceptance ;)
 I made it 
  August 7, 2014
Quoting Tommy Styrvoky I think that removing the m motors in front is a good idea because they will draw power from the XLs and you coul have problems with gear ratio (one sprocket spinning too fast and bad things coul happen) . Just convert it to free-spinning idler wheel.
Yes, I know from my Crawler, that 2 XL-motors are too much for that battery-box. I had to bypass the overload protector in battery-box. Now it's working alright.
 I like it 
  August 4, 2014
I think that removing the m motors in front is a good idea because they will draw power from the XLs and you coul have problems with gear ratio (one sprocket spinning too fast and bad things coul happen) . Just convert it to free-spinning idler wheel.
 I made it 
  August 4, 2014
Quoting Tommy Styrvoky looks structurally sound, it will be interesting to see how well of a improvement this is. also small typo with my last name Styrvoky
Fixed u->y ;) And there are those M-motors still in front, althought i dont now yet how XL and M works together. And upgraded LDD
 I like it 
  August 3, 2014
looks structurally sound, it will be interesting to see how well of a improvement this is. also small typo with my last name Styrvoky
 
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LEGO models my own creation MOCpages toys shop Pzkpfv VIII MAUS XL-motor modificationTechnic


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