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LDD technic: front wheel suspension
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Mc Pherson suspension, with double caliper disc brakes, caster and ackerman
About this creation

double caliper disc brake. will be actuated with rope, inside a pneumatic tube. Idea came from helkern (brickshelf).
Rope will be bound to the outer caliper, pneumatic tube will be put against the inner...
I don't think a spring will be necessary, And that would be wonderfull to maintain purist beliefs.


Some caster,this, and most of the Mac Pherson technique came from Sheepo.


Some Ackerman is available, I doubt it will be sufficient, but there is room for improvements.
I particularly like the fact the pivot point is reasonably close to the wheel.



Just pitty that the 'disc' itself is oh so small...

I know, again a LDD, but one day...

Please leave your ever appreciated comments :-)


Building instructions
Download building instructions (LEGO Digital Designer)

Comments

 I made it 
  June 28, 2017
Quoting Jon Foulkes Hi, I think I pioneered this general design about 10 years ago - maybe more. See some of my MOCs for further images of it actually built and working. http://www.moc-pages.com/image_zoom.php?mocid=288927&id=/user_images/39106/13170284242 A couple of pointers on your design: Most of the force will go on the hub of the small wheel you're using for a disc - that will limit the effectiveness. I have used dental floss instead of rope as it has virtually no stretch and heaps of strength. When using rope or dental floss you need to have it go around corners on casters / bearings of some sort - going around sharp corners really limits the ability to transmit the force as the friction just gets too high. Last point - I would extend the caliper to go both above and below the disc and have the rope go right through, otherwise you'll get only a fraction of the force you do manage to get to the caliper. Brakes are hard to make effective - every little thing you can do helps. Minimise the amount of changes of direction your rope needs to make. I'm going to grind down some 40 tooth technic gears to make my up-rated brake discs - should substantially increase the swept area which is where you get the braking force from. Good luck!
Hi, heaps and heaps of time later and at last a reply. Thank You for commenting You are right on all remarks, one should only be able to test in real bricks. Something I m not able since more then 4 years already...
 I like it 
  May 26, 2016
Hi, I think I pioneered this general design about 10 years ago - maybe more. See some of my MOCs for further images of it actually built and working. http://www.moc-pages.com/image_zoom.php?mocid=288927&id=/user_images/39106/13170284242 A couple of pointers on your design: Most of the force will go on the hub of the small wheel you're using for a disc - that will limit the effectiveness. I have used dental floss instead of rope as it has virtually no stretch and heaps of strength. When using rope or dental floss you need to have it go around corners on casters / bearings of some sort - going around sharp corners really limits the ability to transmit the force as the friction just gets too high. Last point - I would extend the caliper to go both above and below the disc and have the rope go right through, otherwise you'll get only a fraction of the force you do manage to get to the caliper. Brakes are hard to make effective - every little thing you can do helps. Minimise the amount of changes of direction your rope needs to make. I'm going to grind down some 40 tooth technic gears to make my up-rated brake discs - should substantially increase the swept area which is where you get the braking force from. Good luck!
 I like it 
  May 26, 2016
Hi, I think I pioneered this general design about 10 years ago - maybe more. See some of my MOCs for further images of it actually built and working. A couple of pointers on your design: Most of the force will go on the hub of the small wheel you're using for a disc - that will limit the effectiveness. I have used dental floss instead of rope as it has virtually no stretch and heaps of strength. When using rope or dental floss you need to have it go around corners on casters / bearings of some sort - going around sharp corners really limits the ability to transmit the force as the friction just gets too high. Last point - I would extend the caliper to go both above and below the disc and have the rope go right through, otherwise you'll get only a fraction of the force you do manage to get to the caliper. Brakes are hard to make effective - every little thing you can do helps. Minimise the amount of changes of direction your rope needs to make. I'm going to grind down some 40 tooth technic gears to make my up-rated brake discs - should substantially increase the swept area which is where you get the braking force from. Good luck!
 I like it 
  August 5, 2015
I like it!, I think that the caliper and brakes are a great idea.
 I like it 
  July 19, 2015
Ziet er weer netjes uit! Ik ben laatst zelf ook bezig geweest met remmen maken, maar het is erg lastig om zoveel kracht te kunnen uitoefenen op de schijven dat ze echt de wielen zouden kunnen stoppen. Een touw door zo'n buis klinkt slim, dus ik ben benieuwd hoe het werkt!
 I like it 
  July 14, 2015
Very clever, especially the brakes! Well done, so far! :-))
 I made it 
  July 13, 2015
Quoting Nick Barrett Looks usefully compact. Nice work.
Thank you for the comment, I have copied your sentence to edit this page :-)
 I like it 
  July 13, 2015
Looks usefully compact, I particularly like the fact the pivot point is reasonably close to the wheel. Nice work.
 I like it 
  July 13, 2015
Unbelievable, looks very good.
 
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LEGO models my own creation MOCpages toys shop LDD technic: front wheel suspensionTechnic


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